The bloggiest thing I could possibly do is to apologize for being away for so long. Gift guide aside, the last time I wrote to you it was about mediocre films and cookbooks, a year ago. Which I find myself thinking about again but I will keep my thoughts to myself for once. For now.

WHAT’S COOKING

Over the last year a handful of recipes have been in regular rotation in our house. I have come to terms with the fact that I hate daily meal planning and production. I just don’t care! It’s so boring and unsatisfying. So finding reliable recipes that fit into my life make this kind of cooking a little less of a slog.

This tomato and lentil soup is so simple, cheap, and delicious. You can have all of the ingredients on hand at any time. So much more than the sum of its parts. Serve with some crusty bread.

This meatball recipe convinced me conclusively that I don’t need to brown meatballs and in fact I prefer them like these, poached in sauce, because it’s so much less hassle. I think this is the perfect meatball. I like to serve them on polenta and turn leftovers into meatball sandwiches.

I probably shouldn’t have needed a recipe for this, but these blackened chicken breasts are in regular rotation, usually destined to top a Caesar salad (still using Julia Turshen’s genius Caesar salad dressing recipe). Is blackened chicken Caesar salad my favorite food? No, mozzarella sticks are. But it is close. And they’d make a great pairing.

Bronwen Wyatt (who has a fantastic newsletter and is one of my favorite recipe developers) created the most perfect cornbread recipe ever. Highly recommend ordering the cornmeal she uses in the post—it is very good. I tend to make this and serve a slice with a fried egg and a pile of greens.

It is probably weird that most of these are New York Times recipes. But I can’t handle searching for recipes anymore and the totally deranged results, all from some website called something like Sandy’s Yum Yum Adventures. Help.

If anyone has other reliable dinner recipes, would love to see them in the comments. read more+++

Galvanized Tin Vase by Fabien Cappello

One of my favorite shops, Gardenheir, sells these wonderful vases by Fabien Cappello. I love Cappello’s work and his commitment to galvanized tin. Recently he posted a photo of some salt and pepper shakers he has developed that I think about a lot and hope to someday own. Also, check out those tin frills!

Petal Collection by Monsoon Pottery and Martha Mae

Incredible beautiful collection of teaware from two of the coolest people in Chicago (Danielle and Jean). I love the small plates for cookies or candies. They’re so beautifully made and a treat to hold. I encourage you to visit them in person at The Center for Order and Experimentation (one of the best gift shops in Chicago!).

Candle Portraits by Janie Korn

I think I first saw these years ago when Tavi Gevinson posted a photo of her holding a candle version of herself. Last year Helen Rosner included them in her gift guide (one of the best guides on the internet!) and I realized I needed Bryan and me to be immortalized (sort of) in candles. I love candle us.

Trash Raglan by Everybody.World

I bought this sweatshirt not totally understanding what it was, but sometimes those are the best clothing purchases. It is kind of bell-shaped and just super comfortable to wear. Good color.

Corndogs Bumper Sticker

We recently parked behind a car that had this bumper sticker and I screamed when I saw it and immediately knew that my friend Abra needed it (spoiler alert if you are Abra…sorry).

read more+++

I don’t recall why, but I decided to watch all of the films that were nominated for the Best Picture Oscar this year. I think I did this once before, years ago, and am learning the same lesson as I did then—the films aren’t that good. With a couple of exceptions, I have found them mostly mediocre or actually bad. I’ve been posting flippant reviews of the movies as I watch them on Instagram for a laugh and a few people have messaged me to say that I don’t seem to like anything. Well, yeah.

What has surprised me about the tone of these comments (accusations?) is that they seem to come not from a place that is aware of how mediocre most cultural production is, but from a criticism of me as a spoil sport or unnecessarily critical or worse, mean. Which baffles me. Taste being subjective and all, we have all surely encountered a work of art that we think is really, really good. We know it is possible. So why would we ever settle for less? And to be clear, I am not talking about enjoyment here, I am talking about quality. I happily can enjoy (and do!) bad things all of the time. Two of my favorite tv shows are The Bachelorette and Midsommer Murders. They are indefensible, and I love them. If you tell me all of the reasons they are bad, I will agree with you but I won’t stop enjoying them. Just like I am not going to act like I think Past Lives is a good film because it is nominated for an Oscar. And how you can still enjoy Maestro and feel connected to it even though it is so very bad. read more+++

It is important for you to know about this bran muffin recipe that was making the rounds a few weeks ago on Instagram. I learned about it from Hailey who learned about it from Camilla. But the origin of the recipe is here.

I don’t know that I have ever had a strong opinion on bran muffins. But Bryan loves them and I have been thinking I would like a reliable recipe. I’m in love with these beauties and if you are at all curious I implore you to give them a try. The real genius of this recipe is that you mix up a batch of the batter and it sits in the fridge for up to two weeks. You can then bake a couple of muffins every morning which means all of your bran muffins are fresh from the oven. It becomes a lifestyle, really. Slathering salted butter on a warm muffin is now just who I am. read more+++

Coming to you today with one of my most treasured and strange holiday recipes. Versions of this oddity appear all over the internet on sketchy food sites that are mostly ads for weightloss drugs and recipes for “salads” off of the back of packaged goods. I got my version from a chef friend a few years ago who described it as the best dessert ever. Which it is. But it is also bonkers. read more+++

Continuing a tradition started last year, I again managed to convince five of my favorite people to share their gift picks with all of us. I could not be more excited to bring you this very special edition of the gift guide. Once again I have already ordered multiple gifts from these lists. And in case you missed it, my annual guide was published last week—check it out!

SAMIN NOSRAT

You probably know who Samin Nosrat is from her best-selling cookbook (another is on the way!),  television shows, podcast, or world tour (which I had the pleasure of hosting on her Chicago stop!). But you should also know that she is a dear friend who has impeccable taste. The kind of taste that feels effortless. I’m always learning something new from Samin, which is in itself such a gift!

From Samin:

Over the last few years, I’ve found myself spending more of my time considering a single question: “What is a good life?” Another way of asking the same question might be, “At the end of my life, how do I want to have spent my time — which is to say, my most limited, and hence most valuable, resource?”

I’m in the midst of a shift in my life, toward making the answers to these questions — and a handful of others — the points on the compass that guide my decisions, both large and small. And so, in some ways, it feels odd to offer gift ideas when the thing I’d really like to suggest is that you give the most valuable gift of all, which is your time. Yet I hardly make all of my own gifts, nor do I spend time with the people I love the way I wish I could, so I can’t suggest that. Anyhow, I’ve found that often, people most appreciate a gift that allows them the time or encourages them to do a small project they’ve been putting off, to cook a dish they’ve been wanting to try, or just stop and make a cup of tea each afternoon in their new favorite mug. In that spirit, I offer this handful of suggestions:

Blackthorn Sea Salt
This year I tried Blackthorn Scottish sea salt for the first time, and it’s heavenly. Made by master salters using traditional methods along the Scottish coast, the huge, white flakes are gorgeous and clean-tasting. A 3 pound bucket would make a wonderful gift for any avid cook (or eater), and last for ages, too.

Japanese Mandoline 

After nearly 20 years of using the narrower version of this mandoline at home, I recently upgraded to this “Big Beni,” and the only regret I have is not having done it years sooner. Every kitchen needs a mandoline — just glancing at mine hanging on a hook in the kitchen inspires me to make shaved salads with all sorts of fruits and vegetables I might not have otherwise thought to use that way.

Black Walnut Cutting Board 
I’ve had this work of art sitting on my kitchen counter for over a year now, and I never tire of looking at it. It also makes slicing and dicing feel a little bit luxurious, every time.  Add the optional feet and finger grooves, and it’ll make an extraordinary gift for any aesthete with a tiny kitchen who needs to expand their counter space. (And don’t forget to get the Board Butter, too!)

On the Necessity of Gardening
I’ve had this gorgeous book on my coffee table for over a year now, and never tire of browsing through it and reading a little essay or bit of history. It’s inspiring and surprising and has led to much careful thought on my part on the role of the garden in my life. It’d make a lovely gift for any avid gardener or nature lover.

Gregory Parkinson Tablecloth, Placemats, or Napkins

Setting my table with Gregory’s gorgeous double-block printed textiles makes every single meal feel special. Digging through my bin of napkins to find the ones that best match each diner’s personality is a true delight. Any of his offerings would delight a textile lover, but a few sets of napkins would make a truly luxurious gift for anyone who loves to host groups of friends for long dinners around the table. read more+++

RIGHT HAND PILLOW by John Sohn

This was my birthday gift to myself (a tradition I highly recommend). After admiring John Sohn’s work for years, I finally treated myself. It is a big chunky hand to hold you close, or to lay cheekily on your couch. The craftsmanship is really outstanding, and the packaging it came in was inspiringly chic. Don’t forget to have fun!

CHICAGO STYLE HOT DOG CHIPS by Foxtrot

I love Chicago. And hot dogs. And chips. And so these chips obviously combine a lot of my interests. They are also very good. Some seriously better living through chemistry because you can actually taste all of the components of a Chicago Dog in each chip (though I would argue that with the canvas of potato they might best represent a depression dog). It’s a wild ride.

BUBBLE GLASS by Building Block

I learned about these glasses from my friend Aya who has impeccable taste. They’re so lovable and hold a genuinely surprising amount of liquid. A proper little weirdo ready for a good time.

FUSILLI COOKBOOK STAND by Michael Marriott

An absolutely legendary piece of design that should be in museums if it isn’t already. The simplicity! The lines! The functionality! Because it folds flat I hang it from a pot rack when not in use. It is perfect.

BRASS PIN by Alexis Stiteler and Ann Erickson

I don’t wear jewelry often but I do like a pin or brooch on occasion. This tiny brass pin is the result of a collaboration between Alexis Stiteler (whose hand-drawn clothing is outrageously beautiful) and jewelry maker Ann Erickson. It has medieval vibes in the best possible way.

MY OTHER BODY IS A TEMPLE HAT by Bad Museum

Serious LOL.

MORE THAN CAKE by Natasha Pickowicz

One of the greatest baking books ever published—a total game changer and instant classic. Anyone who cares about baking should have this book. I can’t recommend it highly enough. I don’t know what else to say.

read more+++

The quickest of check-ins to share this giant pop-tart (galette if you’re fancy!) that I recently made for an 8-year-old’s birthday party. I used recipes in Camilla Wynne’s brilliant book, Jam Bakes. But essentially I rolled out two disks of galette pastry to about the size of a half-sheet pan (12×15?) and put them in the fridge to chill. Using parchment paper, I made a template of a giant “8” that used as much of the surface of the dough as possible. Cut each sheet of dough into an “8” using the template. I then put one of the two “8”s on a parchment-lined baking sheet and piped the filling onto dough leaving a 1-inch border along all of the edges of the dough. For the filling I used both vanilla custard (thick set- about 2 cups?) and a rhubarb and Amarena cherry jam that I had made (about a cup?). I then brushed the exposed edges of dough with water and very carefully placed the second “8” on top, carefully and gently bringing the edges together to seal. I used a fork to press the edges closed in a decorative pattern, and used a paring knife to cut some ventilation holes into the top of the dough. But here is the best part! I then put the entire thing into the freezer. And left it there for a week! (once it is frozen, wrap it well to protect it!) The morning of the party, I baked from frozen (I baked at 425°F for about 45 minutes, or until golden and you can see jam bubbling through vents). It takes about 2 hours to cool enough to glaze, so keep that in mind when planning the day. And then I made a glaze using the syrup from a jar of Amarena cherries, heavy cream, and confectioners sugar. I added a couple of drops of food coloring to make the pink brighter. Anyway, I loved it. The 8-year-old loved it! Would work with any number but you may get fewer servings with other numbers since the “8” really maximizes surface area. I think I managed to carve about 25 small servings out of this beauty.

That’s all! Hope you’re having a good summer.

We recently returned from three weeks in England. We spent a week in Somerset and the Cotswolds, but the bulk of the time was spent in London. It was a dream trip with origins in a week-long trip we had scheduled in 2020 that was canceled for the obvious reason and the longer it was delayed the more it grew. Revenge travel?

We ate a lot of good food in London, it is easy to do. Growing up I remember jokes about British cuisine, but these days I don’t think there is a city I enjoy eating out in more. It’s good fun. And so we had two weeks of meals at restaurants that were old favorites or recommended by friends or written about by people I trust. The funny thing about having that many nice meals in a relatively short amount of time is that it can be disorienting. Meals that might have stood out during a normal week suddenly seem less special. It got me thinking about what makes a good restaurant. And the main thing I’ve arrived at (and this isn’t original) is that it is never just the food. In fact, sometimes I think the food isn’t even at the top of the list. We ate good food at places that didn’t feel great for other reasons. There was a cool new place with incredible food where the staff kept telling us they needed our table in 2 hours (1 hour, 30 minutes, 15 minutes…), an iconic favorite that felt “museum-like” (to quote a friend I was complaining about it to), and another that was phoning it in and relying on an endless stream of tourists. We had good company and were on vacation at these spots, so none of this really bothered us. But you know when something is off. A handful of places felt so right that I keep thinking about them…

read more+++

This photo from the set of Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette is one of my favorite things. And one doesn’t think about Marie Antoinette without thinking about cake, or at least I don’t. Though I also know that the famous quote was translated wrong or taken out of context or attributed to the wrong person, which some self-righteous nerd explained to me years ago. Truly, who cares.

I’d also never really cared much about proper cakes, the ones with layers and frosting that are served at weddings or birthday parties. They’re just kind of sweet and soft and somehow always a letdown. I would rather have almost anything else—a donut, a danish (a cheese danish!), a tart, even a streusel-topped coffee cake, which is cake but not the kind we’re talking about. And so until a year or two ago, outside of the occasional carrot cake, I had never really made a proper cake.

read more+++